An Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) is the controller in a wallbox that checks how many Ampere the charging cable is able to transfer (as indicated by the PP resistor inside the cable) and communicates this via a PWM signal to the electric vehicle (EV) and when the EV signals that it wants to charge, then the EVSE finally closes the contactor inside the wallbox so that the charging current can flow to the onboard charger (OBC) inside the EV (the OBC then slowly ramps up the charging current and ramps it down at the end of charging, so contactor closing/connecting and opening/disconnecting does not involve an electric arc, so that contactor welding is not an issue).
After the Phoenix Contact EVSE in my Wallbe Eco 3.6 kW wallbox died, I replaced it with an EVSE-DIN (essentially the EVSE-WB in a DIN rail enclosure) from EV Racing. Note that there are types with a DC residual current monitoring and without. If you take the variant without, then you need to have a type B RCD.
I bought the version with Modbus from the seller OpenWB: that seller had Modbus already enabled (factory setting is disabled) and had the maximum current set to 13 A (more foolproof than the default 32 A), but had unfortunately also disabled PP detection and had it instead set to 32 Ampere (instead of measuring the PP resistor value).
I also bought an RS485 to USB converter so that I can access the EVSE-DIN's Modbus via USB.
The EVSE-DIN is very simple, but there exists a third party add-on that uses an ESP32 to add Wifi support, web server and other functionality: EVSE-WiFi. (And if you want to play around a lot with an EVSE: use an EV simulator to try out your EVSE, including checking error-handling: as any contactor, the contactors inside the EV have limited amount of open/close cycles, so using your car to test your EVSE may exhaust the cycles of the contactor inside your car).
Modbus is the protocol, RS485 is the physical layer (often, this is called RTU mode, but in fact, RTU mode means that each byte contains 8 bit of information instead of using ASCII character encoding where two ASCII characters would be needed for transmitting 8 bits) -- there exist also a TCP layer as lower layer for Modbus.
By default, 16 bit values are transmitted as values (when bit-level access is supported, then bits are called coils).
For EVSE-DIN with RS485, the baudrate is 9600 with 8N1, i.e. data bits are 8, parity is none, and stop bits is 1. The Modbus slave address of the EVSE-DIN is 1, but that can be changed via Modbus register 2001.
The registers that are accessible via Modbus can be found in the EVSE-DIN documentation.
On my Linux system, the RS485 to USB converter can be accessed via /dev/ttyUSB0 and that needs be accessed as super user.
To read the 10 registers from 1000 to 1009 via RS485, with addresses starting from 0 and a 1-time printout (using mbpoll's default slave address, i.e. 1): sudo mbpoll -m rtu -b 9600 -d 8 -P none -s 1 -0 -1 /dev/ttyUSB0 -r 1000 -c 10
When writing values, be aware that you need always to write at least two consecutive values (i.e. do a read to find out what the second value is and simply rewrite it). If you try to write only one single value to EVSE-DIN, you will get the following error: Write output (holding) register failed: Illegal function
The reason is that Modbus function code 06 for writing a single value is not supported by EVSE-DIN.
From the above EVSE-DIN PDF:
NOTE#3: Only functions 03 (Read Holding Registers) and 16 (Preset Multiple Registers)
are implemented. For more details please check: http://www.simplymodbus.ca/FAQ.htm
Therefore, to write values, take care to write at least two values to make mbpoll use the Modbus function 16 (Preset Multiple Registers).
Changes that I did:
Set default (maximum) charging current to 17 Ampere in order to reflect the cable and circuit breaker rating in my garage (which is 16 A, but my EV is careful and uses always a little bit less, i.e. 16 A when the EVSE allows to use 17 A):
Change register 2000 from 13 to 17.
As single values cannot be written to EVSE-DIN, I had to write multiple values and the above read shows that 2001 is 1, so I wrote starting from 2000 the two values 17 1: sudo mbpoll -m rtu -b 9600 -d 8 -P none -s 1 -0 /dev/ttyUSB0 -r 2000 17 1,
Make LED not quickly flashing when idle, but permanently on when idle (and slowly flashing when charging, i.e. contactor is on. Any remaining fast flashing is an indicator of an error):
Change bit 2 in register 2005 to gain constant LED ON while no EV is connected. Register 2005 had a value of 521, i.e. 0b1000001001 = (bit 1 set, i.e. button can be used to change charging current; bit 3 set, i.e. support to charge with ventilation for lead battery-based EVs; bit 9 set, i.e. pilot auto recover delay) and after setting bit 2, the new values is 525. Writing that value should work via
Enable PP detection (i.e. it takes the maximum charge current from the connected charging cable):
Change register 2007 from 32 to 0.
As single values cannot be written to EVSE-DIN, I wrote multiple values and the above read shows that 2006 is 0, so I wrote starting from 2005 the three values 525 0 0:
The LED is now on when idle (instead of nervously blinking). Also, after having enabled PP detection, register 1003 has then the value 5 with no cable attached and 20 with an 20 Ampere cable attached.
In future, I might try enabling a second LED (via pin AN) as a dedicated error LED (need to find out what the normal LED does then display). Currently, the single LED is on when the wallbox is idle, i.e. no EV connected, flashes two times quickly followed by a short pause when the EV is connected (PWM generated by EVSE), but does not charge (e.g. EV finished charging or EV is initiating charging), and flashes slowly while the EV is charging, i.e. the contactor is closed.
Another future work is to upgrade the wallbox to 20 Amps and 3 phases. I already added a 3L+N contactor and the charging port cabling supports 20 Amps as well as the Phoenix terminal blocks do. Just all internal wiring needs to be upgraded to 3 phase 20 Amps.
The HYUNDAI/KIA/GENESIS models have a "hidden" engineering mode that can be used to, e.g., find out manufacturing date or software versions (you can also reset settings -- which you probably want to avoid).
Entering engineering mode seems to differ from region to region and also from head unit firmware version, here are the instructions for European models up to (Dec 2022) 221223 versions:
Switch from air condition panel to navigation and radio panel
Switch radio on (probably to FM)
Turn the volume dial to 7
Press the other dial (marked "FILE")
Turn the volume dial to 3
Press the other dial (marked "FILE")
Turn the volume dial to 1
Press the other dial (marked "FILE")
Now, some number buttons are displayed to enter a secret number code
The number code varies from head unit (AKA center display) version to version. For the Nov 2022 (221129) and Dec 2022 (221223) versions, the number code is: 1950 0624
This info can be found, e.g., on YouTube:
For European models up to Dec 2022 (221223) versions:
https://youtu.be/kht_9Fv_dwo
I have yet to try how it works for the Jun 2023 (230601) version that does not seem to use the volume dial method anymore, but some very specific touch locations (and then, then number code 19450815)
For example, using the versions displayed in Engineering Mode, you can see that service action SA533 "VCU Software Upgrade for i-Pedal Operation" did update the VCU version from, e.g., 5.10 to 5.12, but none of the other ECUs firmwares get updated.
Using an OBD port adapter and the Car Scanner app for Android, you can even get further information use the Car Scanner feature for an ECU dump (ECU information from the main screen) which contains version numbers as well. After the ICCU software update, I should be able to see the version numbers changing. Update: after the Service Campaign SC271 ICCU update, I have exactly the version number of before and after as shown in this video (except that I have a 3 days younger ECU manufacturing date (HEX): 20210906). But I later read that the ICCU update does not really solve the ICCU issues, but mainly improves reporting the issue, so that the owner has more time before the car stops moving because of the dead ICCU; but at least also that software improvements will improve calibration values and preventing fuse from going burned.
Modern electric vehicles (EVs) are computers on wheels (anyone interested in research on this is welcome to contact me), e.g., they provide in their navigation system (live) data concerning EV chargers (location, power and plug type such as AC vs. DC, availability such as busy or not). Concerning Icelandic charging stations, these data bases need to be improved. My experience is that this EV charging station data displayed in the cars comes from the big map providers (i.e. TomTom and Here), but not from their maps, but from some extra data base. For example, TomTom has -- in addition to their map data -- a data base for EV services (it seems that Here does not have such an EV-specific service and even if your car has map data from Here, the EV services probably come from TomTom).
(Having as many DC chargers as possible known to the car is needed to make the car pre-heat the battery before charging, as in case of Kia/Hyundai, this requires the charger to be known to the car.)
The Icelandic Ísorka charging operator is using the Virta infrastructure and Virta is collaborating with TomTom and therefore, their stations are pretty complete and provide dynamic live data concerning availability in my TomTom-based car. But the data for the Icelandic Orka náttúrunnar (ON) chargers are often outdated (e.g. assuming everywhere only a 50 kW DC fast charger where ON nowadays has 150 kW or even 225 kW fast chargers) or in the worst case simply lacking on the map or do not exist anymore (e.g. the fast charger in Kirkjubæjarklaustur used to be operated by ON in the past and is therefore still listed in TomTom's EV service data base, even though it is now operated by N1 -- I anyway have the feeling that N1 chargers are not in the data base). Also, some ON stations (e.g. the two DC chargers on the two sides of Miklabraut at Kringlan) are listed as Charge and Drive and others as Orka náttúrunnar.
These ON Alpitronic chargers at one of the most important charging locations (Baulan) are 225 DC chargers (would be listed as High Power Charger as for the Porsche charger below), but is only listed as slower DC, i.e. 200 kW or less, charger. Also, no real-time availability info.
These ON Alpitronic chargers at one of the most important charging locations (Viðigerði) are 225 DC chargers that were initially completely lacking, but after I reported them via the TomTom Mapshare tool, they show up -- but only listed as slower DC charger and no real-time availability info.
This 300 kW charger is correctly listed as High Power Charger. Still, no real-time availability info: listed as unknown.
This Ísorka AC chargers have real-time info on availability (as they are part of the Virta network).
I was wondering how I can improve this. I reported electric vehicle charging POIs to the TomTom Mapshare tool. And indeed, it seems that after a couple of days, my reported POIs have been added to the map: at least in Viðigerði, I reported the missing ON charger and the N1 petrol station that has been moved. And now, these POIs are in the TomTom online map and my car displays it on the map (even though, I did not install manually a map update in my car). This means, my care got this updated information using TomTom's EV service data base that it accesses online. TomTom was really fast in adding the charger at Hof in Akureyri that I reported; both are now on the TomTom online map and in TomTom's EV service data base.
TomTom has this extra EV service's API that provides exactly this kind of data (but it does not mention how to get data into that system: bug POI reporting on the map helped to get a charger into that data base, however the power information is lacking). Also, my car displays live data for Ísorka stations (some listed as Virta, some as Ísorka -- so there is also some chaos there), but not for ON. This is all evidence that charging station information does not come from the TomTom map itself, but via their EV services that provide, e.g. static information (the example response contains charger locations, plug type, etc. -- this is information that is not on the map, but that is nevertheless listed by my car) and dynamic real-time (availability) information.
So, very likely even without any map updates installed in your car, just getting updates into this static EV services data is already enough to let a car know about charging stations.
I have asked ON to contact TomTom to get more up-to-date static ON charging station data (e.g. correct info on max. charging power) into the TomTom EV services (and preferably also the dynamic live data on availability). And ON answered me that they are working on it.
Update 25.4.2023ON kept me up-to-date: they partnered with some company to make real-time data available and Google maps lists now real-time data for ON (if you let Google maps display EV charging station). Later, the data should also be available via TomTom EV services.
Update 21.6.2023 There was new firmware for the headunit available that also has new map data. While some of the ON HPC chargers that were before listed as DC (i.e. =150 kW), I am not sure whether this comes from the map or from the live data (I forgot to check before I did the map update). But in addition to reporting updates for the chargers, I also reported updates for the map itself, i.e. changed roads, and none of them are contained in the updated map: this makes it more likely that the updates come rather from live data and not from the static map.
Update 22.10.2023 The ON charger live data on availability of chargers is now actually displayed in my car, so the information from 25.4.2023, that this info will sooner or later show up there, became reality. Currently, I have now for the same charger two entries shown in my car: one from the static map (using the Icelandic name Orka náttúrunnar) and another with availability status from the live data (using the English name "ON Power"). Currently, the information concerning DC vs. HPC is not up-to-date, i.e. the live data lists HPC chargers as DC (whereas the static map has them correctly listed as HPC).
Live data on availability of chargers (next to static map data for the same chargers)
Should I or you ever need to delete all registered devices for WiFi access to the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, I found a solution on some English forum (I hope, it is OK to copy it here):
WiFi Reset Procedure:
Get in the car and Fully close the Drivers door.
IMPORTANT - All steps below must be performed within a total of 30 seconds.
Without pressing the brake pedal, press the power button once so that it glows orange (ACC mode).
Turn on the Hazard lights.
Now quickly alternately press and release the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the key fob 5 times, i.e. 10 presses in total. This must be done within 10 seconds of pressing the Power button ON as in (1) above.
Listen for one BEEP, followed by 0, 1 or 2 more beeps.
Now quickly alternately press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the key fob another 10 times each within 10 seconds, i.e. another 20 presses.
Listen for one BEEP, followed by 0 more beeps.
If you only hear a single BEEP, with no following BEEPs, you have successfully reset the WiFi. You can now register 2 new phones with the car again, using the standard procedure (but see Note below). If you hear more BEEPs after the first long BEEP, then its not worked and you should try again following the procedure correctly step by step and within the timings stated.
Switch off the Power button and Hazard lights.
Note: If you reset the WiFi, before you attempt to connect your phone to the car again, you should first remove the Mitsubishi APP from your phone completely.
Once the APP is removed you can then connect your phone with the car WiFi first and only then, after successfully connecting your phone (not the APP) to the car WiFi, should you download and install the APP again. Then of course you must go through the APP procedure.
On some Android phones (like mine) after you first connect to the car WiFi with your phone, a warning will pop up on your phone after about 10 or 15 seconds stating there is no internet connection with this WiFi and it will ask you if you still want to connect to this particular WiFi now and in the future. You MUST wait for this pop up on your phone and select Yes (of course!).
I addition, some German forum covers that as well.
After the terrible experience with my dealer (Bílaumboðið Askaj), I had to investigate whether they did at least installed all the firmware updates needed to make drive battery pre-conditioning work:
While the Kia (and Hyundai) EVs always had a "winter mode" where it heats the drive battery up to +5 °C when it is below -5 °C (and the battery has a low SoC, i.e. it can be anticipated that some charging might happen soon), recently heating to reach 20 °C has been added by selecting a High-Power Charger (HPC) with a power of 150 kW or more or a slower DC (i.e. <150 kW) charger. This can be annoying if outdated map data indicates no charger to select in the navigation system that you can set as destination or waypoint -- but in that case, just claim to navigate to the closest DC/HPC charger known in the map.
However, to make that work, you need
Navigation/infotainment system update for the head unit (HU), e.g. the one from Dec 2022 (you can do this update on your own)
Update of ECU firmware (BMS and VCU) -- only the dealer service can do that
You still have the old winter mode, if you see in your head unit in the "EV settings" section an entry "Winter mode". If you see rather instead "Battery conditioning mode", then you have the new battery heating mode:
Battery conditioning mode displayed if drive battery pre-heating works (if the needed firmware updates have not been made, you see just: winter mode)
Of course, the new "Battery conditioning mode" needs to be enabled
Navigating to an HPC/DC charger (note: it is often written that this needs to be an HPC charger, but I experienced that a DC charger also activates battery heating in cold condition), even as a waypoint -- but be aware that navigation only starts if the HPC/DC charger is the very next waypoint (in case you have multiple waypoints).
Drive battery temperature below 21 °C (heating will later stop once 21 °C or more have been reached, but will resume again once dropped to 19.5 °C or lower)
SoC is 24% or higher (heating will later stop once SoC is 20% or lower) -- somewhat stupid: optimal charging speed means to reach the charger with an SoC as low as, e.g., 10%, but battery heating is not possible with low SoC
It is not fully clear, when the preconditioning starts: it seems that it depends on the temperature of the battery (the colder, the earlier the preheating has to start). Also, it seems that preconditioning stops somewhat before reaching the charger (in order to spread or balance the heat inside the battery to prevent that some modules are too hot while others are too cold): a hypothesis is that the car estimates the SoC that it will have when it arrives at the charger and stops at a Soc that is 10 percentage points higher than the estimated SoC of arrival (this would fit to the fact that preconditioning stops at 20% SoC as the car estimates then to arrive with 10% SoC, i.e. leaves another 10% SoC as safety buffer).
It seems that 10 minutes of pre-conditioning increase the battery temperature by ca. 3 Kelvin (in -4°C, my car started heating 70 minutes in advance of reaching the HPC charger).
You will notice that the battery heating is active if a snow flake (model year 2022) or a heating spiral icon (model year 2023 -- this is related to the firmware used by the cluster unit (CLU) firmware that displays the main dashboard) is shown in the battery percentage bar on the very bottom left of the dashboard.
Also pre-conditioning (to +10 °C only, though) via app is possible by either simply starting climate control for the cabin or by setting a schedule for climate control (i.e. not only the cabin gets heated, but also the battery -- you can use this, e.g., if you have the car parked at home and want to fast charge at a charger very close to you: in this case, the pre-conditioning during driving would not be long enough; but if you do not intend to charge, but only want to pre-heat the cabin, heating the battery wastes of course energy):
Activated pre-conditioning via app
SoC at least 35% (this is what you read in the forums, I had the feeling that this percentage might be even higher)
Drive battery temperature 8 °C or lower
Every pre-conditioning as part of a 15 minute cabin pre-heating increases the battery temperature by ca. 5 Kelvin
The app indicates this (in the European app, next to the battery level bar, is a question mark icon: if you click on it, it shows how battery pre-conditioning will be shown in the app). Just be aware that the conditioning needs ca. 1 minute to start, so you will not see it immediately (e.g. in the app, you need the refresh the status after ca. 1 minute in order to see the changed battery icon).
In the charging curve below, you find a good overview on the charging power in relation to the battery temperature. Many forum posts support that there are 5 Kelvin steps (instead of a gradual curve) and of course, it depends on the state of charge:
Note also that both the coldest and the warmest battery module needs to be within that temperature range.
My dealer (Bílaumboð Askja) had promised that all updates have been made when my new car was delivered. However, this proved to be partly wrong: it seems that at Kia, the head unit update is always left to the owner. So, I had to do the update on my own:
Updating the Hyundai/Kia/Genesis head unit/navigation infotainment system firmware needs to be done by the end user.
For European models, you can find the download here: https://update.kia.com/EU/E1/Main -- once you updated to a new enough firmware, future updates can even be done over-the-air (OTA) (but note that only two OTA updates might be available for free, so do not blindly agree to download and install an OTA update. But you can install the same updates via USB).
This update does not only give you new map data, but in fact, it controls many features not related to navigation (but even the salesperson of my car dealer is not aware of this), e.g. battery pre-conditioning.
A guide is available from Kia, but in principle it works by downloading an update tool to your computer that then downloads the right and latest firmware and writes it to a big enough USB storage device. You will need one with a type A connector, e.g., a USB stick (the 2022-12-07 update is 40 GB, so you need at least a 64 GB storage device: it will be formatted by the update tool) that you can then plug into your car's USB A port. A YouTube video of that procedure is here:
However, the Kia web page provides only downloads of an update tool for MS Windows and Apple Mac. Trying to download it via a web browser from Linux gives an error. I guess, some Javascript checks the operating system string in your web browser Id. I did not check the Javascript. Later I read that using Wine should work to run the update tool and then let that tool download the files and then use Linux to copy these files (all those files inside directory EV6_MY_22_EI) to the root of the USB key) -- but I did not yet try that.
I therefore decided to use a virtual machine running MS Windows. The steps are as follows (depending on your download speed, expect: 1 h for downloading the MS Windows image, 1 h for downloading the new firmware image, 1 h for writing the firmware image to the USB key, 1 h for the update in the car itself):
Download & install VirtualBox (via your Linux operating system's packet manager or by download from https://www.virtualbox.org/ )
Download & install (via packet manager or download) the VirtualBox extensions pack for making the USB port available in the Windows VM (typically requires to reboot your Linux system to make this work: I guess some kernel modules are involved that do not get automatically inserted during installation, but only after re-boot)
Import that VM image into VirtualBox: take care to have the virtual file system partition big enough for the download, i.e. have 40 to 64 GB free in addition to the MS Windows installation itself.
Plug your USB key in, don't mount it in Linux and configure VirtualBox to access it: see here
After starting the VM with MS Windows 10, log in via the password "Passw0rd!". In the File Explorer, you should see the USB key as drive letter D:
Starting from here, the steps are the same as for any MS Windows user:
Start the downloaded updater (I did start it as administrator to make sure that the access to the USB key works)
Select then your car type in order to download the right firmware (as this is a huge download, this will take time -- if you do not have enough space, the downloader will complain. The good thing about a VM is that you can easily increase the size of the VM file system)
Finally, the updater will write the downloaded firmware to the USB key (which will again take time -- note: it might be that you Windows VM shuts down automatically after writing to the USB key has finished)
Plug the USB key into your car (the "main" USB port, i.e. the USB A type one that you use also for Android Auto/Apple Car play -- all other ports, i.e. the USB type C ones, are typically no data ports, i.e. power only)
Typically, the car recognises that there is an update on the USB stick and open some prompt to start the update. If not, on the car screen, go to "Settings", "General", "Version info/update" and click "Update". Follow the prompt on the screen. The car will first check the download on the USB key (takes ca. 10 minutes): so you do not need to worry that anything with the download or writing to the USB could have gone wrong, because the car checks that anyway.
The update should now be running (either after switching off the car or you can choose to do this while the car is on -- but then, you cannot use the head unit while driving). It takes a while, so take care that the 12 V battery is full (some even recommend to have a 12 V charger connected for any firmware update) or leave the car's gear in P mode or enable the car's utility mode (which ensures to charge the 12 V battery even if the car is not in drive mode, but in fact if and only if not in drive, i.e. it also prevents that your car accidentally drives or roles away).
Firmware and map versions before the update (compare with the versions after the update, shown below)
Version numbers displayed after the Dec 2022 update
June 2023 (230517) update bringing charging planning as part of route planning.
October/November 2023 update that was supposed to bring state of charge percentage estimates for arrival at chargers -- while this happened for the IONIQ 5 and EV6 in America, this is not the case for the European EV6. But this seemed to be a server-side thing, so that is now available.
Applied firmware updates that only the dealer could do:
SA533 "VCU Software Upgrade for i-Pedal Operation" did update the VCU version from, e.g., 5.10 to 5.12.
Service Campaign SC271 ICCU update did update the firmware of "4WD #1 / OnBoard Charger (Hybrid/EV)" from Manufacturer ECU software number: ECV1E1-IES05R000 to Manufacturer ECU software number: ECV1E3-IES12R000
No need to have the firmware fix for the Kia recall SC236 for the parking brake applied (according to CarScanner OBD, my ECU GSM-GearShiftCtrl had already the Calibration ID: ECV1XXXXXAE19XS2 -- which means the fix has been applied).
While I did not find many tests on EV-specific tyres (EVs are heavier and have more torque and as EV are silent, EV tyres should be silent as well, and they claim to have reduced rolling resistance to increase range; I as a layman would think that they have less grip -- I found a test from 2019 (in German) that confirms this and also points to problems with aquaplaning), I found a very interesting video showing that winter-biased all seasons tyres might be not that bad for the Reykjavík area -- while Nordic winter tyres excel on ice and snow, they are really bad in wet and dry conditions (even when cold). This test confirms also claims that summer tyres are good even in cold conditions, but only as long as it is dry -- which you should of course not rely on in winter.
While a car with a combustion engine charges its 12 V battery via an alternator, electric vehicles (EVs) have a DC-DC converter to step down the 400 V or 800 V from the drive battery to charge the 12 V battery. This is done when the car is switched on (because then, a lot of electronic control units (ECUs) drain the 12 V battery), but also when the car is switched off while charging the drive battery (while only a few ECUs need to be active to control the charging, charging the drive battery can take many hours which could drain the 12 V battery even with the few active ECUs). Typically, even when the EV is completely switched off (which includes that the drive battery is disconnected for safety reasons), it wakes up occasionally and checks the voltage of the 12 V battery and charges it if necessary (by connecting the drive battery for the DC-DC converter). Problems can occur if the car is switched off, but you still do something that prevents the ECUs from sleeping, e.g. have the trunk door open for loading/unloading the car. So try to keep this short, otherwise the 12 V battery is dead after a few hours.
Also, when the drive battery is reaching a low (20% for the Kia EV6, 10% after the 2023 ICCU firmware update, at least for the ICCU in the US, not sure whether this applies globally) state of charge (SOC), the 12 V may not get charged anymore (to protect the expensive drive battery from getting deep-discharged -- it is cheaper to replace a 12 V battery than a drive battery. Anecdote: the early Tesla Roadsters had no 12 V battery but were constantly draining the drive battery by having the DC-DC converter on all the time, thus depleting the drive battery. Finally, Tesla added the 12 V battery.). So avoid, e.g., driving to the airport leaving only minimal juice in the drive battery, because if you park then the car while you are in vacation, the car will not charge the 12 V battery.
How can you find out when the DC-DC charging is going on: you may be tempted to use a voltmeter (you will measure 14 V during DC-DC charging), but some cars (this seems to be the case for Kia EV6) do not charge the 12 V battery while the bonnet is open (to avoid any interference of the 14 V DC-DC voltage with what you are doing, e.g. trickle charging the 12 V battery). Important: even for a simple thing such as exchanging a 12 V battery, you might want to disable the high-voltage drive battery. In the Kia EV6, this is very easy: in the fuse box below the bonnet, there is a fuse-like cut-off switch that you can easily pull.
To show that the drive battery is activated even though the car is off, some cars have a light (e.g. the Hyundai Kona or even the US version of the EV6), but the European EV6 seems not to have such an indicator (while there is a bulb in the middle of the dashboard where the US versions are reported to have a light, this seems to be unused in the European versions). For the IONIQ5, it is claimed that open front vents indicate DC-DC charging and I have the feeling that this is also the case as well for my EV6 (when charging a lead-acid battery, hydrogen can emerge and opening the front vents may help to dilute the hydrogen to reduce the danger of explosions).
But there are also defects that can drain the battery, e.g., for the Hyundai IONIQ 5, it is well documented that the charge door module has often defects that prevent some ECUs to go to sleep (or the charge door ECU itself is defect). As a result, you find many reports of people who encounter a dead car in the morning.
EV6
But the case here is different: the car is alive, but still does not charge the 12 V battery: while the 12 V battery voltage is low, it has not yet been fully drained, i.e. it is possible to start the car: the car should then notice that it has to charge the 12 V battery, but due to some defect, it does not do so.
Update: A year later, I know now that the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) and a related fuse were damaged. In some cases, only parts of the ICCU are damaged and it is not possible to charge the car via AC, but DC fast charging is still possible and the DC-DC 12 V charging still works as well. In my case, in addition some fuse was blown which leads then to the 12 V battery not being charged and drive-train issues. I has to be noted that the car was brand new, so no real wear can have occurred, yet. In my case, it seems that there was a coolant leakage inside the ICCU thus submerging the electronics in coolant resulting in high currents that make the fuse (that is external to the ICCU) blow.
This is from a brand new Kia EV6 (84 km driven, bought 3 days ago) that has a problem that manifests among others with a 12 V battery that is not charged by the drive battery via the DC-DC converter (and also warnings concerning the drive electrics and switching to turtle mode -- it is hard to say whether these warnings are a symptom of the 12 V battery low voltage or whether that fact that it does not DC-DC charge the 12 V battery voltage is a symptom of a more severe failure to which the drive electrics warning and turtle mode refer to). After switching the car on, everything was normal except a message popping up: "Check electric vehicle system", followed later by a "Stop vehicle and check power supply" (complaining about a low 12 V battery) and "Power limited" (turtle mode). But as the car is switched on (into ready mode), it should charge the 12 V battery using the DC-DC converter. I tried also AC charging the drive battery (which should also lead to charging the 12 V battery), but after one minute, the AC charging of the drive battery gets aborted by the car. I then switched the car off, hoping that it sooner or later periodically checks the 12 V battery and charges it -- but this did neither work (instead, the battery is dead now: following 7.5 V, it is now down to 3 to 4 V which means the 12 V battery is now deep-discharged, i.e. damaged and needs to be replaced -- but this of course only makes sense after the root cause of the problem has been fixed, e.g. a broken DC-DC converter or a broken ECU or simply some missing update of a buggy firmware -- but the car dealer promised me that all firmware updates have been applied when I pointed out that I am paying the model year 23 price for a model year 22 car that is shipped with ECUs firmwares that are not as new as the model year 23 firmwares).
I have documented this in a video where you see first how the AC charging gets aborted after one minute (no charging limit was active and the SOC was 67%, i.e. it should have charged up to 100%):
Another explanation for any erratic behaviour could be a special fuse that is used when shipping cars: it is pulled to make the car drain the 12 V battery as little as possible during transport. If it is then not properly pushed in by the receiving dealership, the car can behave very strange. But in fact, the EV6 did behave normal during the first two days, so this is not very likely (and I do not know whether the EV6 has such a fuse at all).
12 V battery: produced 27-06-2022, killed 3-12-2022 by a faulty KIA EV6.
Bílaumboðið Askja -- four days to come with a tow truck
3-12-2022 and 4-12-2022:
As it was a weekend, I wrote on 3-12-2022 my car dealer at the dealership Bílaumboðið Askja (official Kia importer in Iceland) an email about the problem. Also, I used on 4-12-2022 the web form that Bílaumboðið Askja suggests to use outside opening hours in those cases where the road-side service cannot help (the road-side service would come with a battery jump start booster pack, but it is clear that jump starting alone would not help) and I asked Askja to call back.
Let's hope, the Kia service can find the root cause of the problem (but: when they mounted winter wheels, they filled the tyres with a too low pressure: 29 PSI; also for these rims, the document of approval states that the vehicle owner needs to be notified to check after 50 km the torque of the wheel studs/bolts of the winter rims, which they did not do -- maybe they are not got at these basics, but very good in EV diagnostics).
Update 5-12-2022: I was too optimistic with the Kia service at Askja -- I should have written :"Let's hope that the Kia service reacts." My first contact was 3-12-2022 with the salesperson of Askja (as the seller is the one who is in charge (pun intended) of warranty and in fact the warranty conditions recommend to contact the seller). That salesperson at least answered 5-12-2022 and claimed that their service will contact me. (As written above, I had in fact already contacted Kia service in the way they recommend on their web page, namely via a web form, on 4-12-2022 and asked them to call back -- but as of 5-12-2022, Askja service did not even call back.) When I pointed out to that salesperson that the service did in fact not contact me, that salesperson simply stopped answering my emails. (From that point I assumed that any electronic communication with the Kia staff is hopeless.)
Update 6-12-2022: Still no answer from KIA service. So, I finally drove to the KIA dealership (luckily, I have a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV -- a very reliable car that never let me down -- and its 5 year old 360 degree camera is in fact better stitching the camera images together than the EV6 360 degree camera). I saw then there the salesperson who does not answer my emails sitting bored at his desk, so I considered it pointless to talk to that person and went instead to the service desk. When I pointed out, that they do not answer my service request, they claimed, I used the wrong web form (well, it was the one that they recommend to use on their web page, i.e. they do not know their own web page). But at least, they promised to fetch the car tomorrow (why not today?). I also handed them over a signed letter requesting free warranty service with a deadline to fix the problem within two weeks (I did send that one already as email to the salesperson from whom I bought the car, but he did not confirm having received it), maybe that helps. Ironically, I found in my email spam folder today an email where I was asked to evaluate the service of that salesperson. Update of update: Finally, they phoned me (after I have driven to Askja) and they excused for calling so late because there was a meeting in the morning -- but this does not explain why they did not call me already, e.g., the day before.
Update 7-12-2022: The tow truck now actually came (4 days after I reported the problem) after I have told on the phone that the 12 V battery is dead. But, well: to start a vehicle with a dead 12 V battery, you need a jump starter booster pack and guess what: the booster pack in the tow truck was not charged. As the DC-DC converter does not charge the 12 V battery, the booster pack needs to be permanently be connected to the dead EV6 12 V battery and while we were trying to drive the car on the ramp, the EV6 switched off as the booster pack did not have enough juice anymore. Also, as the EV6 is in turtle mode ("limited power"), the EV6 cannot even climb the tiny ramp of the tow truck, so it has to be winched up. But first, a new (=fully charged) booster pack is needed that the tow truck is fetching right now (at least: solution-oriented and some progress is made).
No juice in the jump start booster pack, no EV6 that can be put into "Neutral" to winch it up the tow truck -- tow truck drives home again to fetch a booster pack with juice
Once the tow truck came back with a charged booster pack and putting the EV6 gear setting into "Neutral", it was possible to winch up the car. Once the car had 12 V again, the DC-DC charging did still not work (despite the bonnet being closed), i.e. the reset due to the dead 12 V battery did not solve the issue (either there is some error set in the memory that needs to be cleared first or there is really a serious problem).
EV6 winched up on the tow truck -- 4 days after reporting
Let's hope the service finds the problem (and of course replaces the dead 12 V battery). Good news (finally): At least, the service seems to be working on the car: the car was fetched 14:15, and at 16:39, I received the first signs of life via the Kia Connect app.
Update 9-12-2022: After two days of repair (compare that to the four days of waiting for the tow truck), I got a call that some ECU needs to be replaced (a fuse inside that ECU has blown), but they could not tell me which ECU (maybe the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU)). While they do not have it on stock, they took it from one of their EV6 that they have standing around (instead of needing to wait weeks for a replacement to be shipped) -- so that is finally good service. I have now fetched my car: it works, but they did not replace the 12 V battery, even though it can be expected that it is now damaged after having been deep discharged to 3 V -- that is bad service. (I hope when I leave the car a couple of days at, e.g., the airport, the battery is still OK once I return.)
I also had now time to check the versions of the head-unit firmware: this are old, very old (navigation app from 26-01-2022 and firmware from 07-04-2022) -- despite the Askja salesperson promising that all updates have been made. (When I bought the car, I did not know where to look up the firmware versions -- but the salesperson has to know the cars he sells, so he could have looked that up.) But as the head unit firmware can be updated by the owner, it seems to be Kia policy to update only those firmwares that only the dealer can update.
(At least, I was able to update the navigation/infotainment system firmware on my own.) At least, the firmware fix for the Kia recall SC236 for the parking brake was already applied (according to CarScanner OBD, my ECU GSM-GearShiftCtrl has the Calibration ID: ECV1XXXXXAE19XS2 -- which means the fix has been applied).
(While there is the Kia page https://eu-account.kia.com/auth/realms/eukiaidm/account/ for the Kia Connect account needed for the app, it does not list recalls. I tried also creating an account at https://www.mykia.de which knows my VIN (with a wrong warranty start, though), but assumes a German address and German dealer, so I aborted that.)
Update 15-12-2022: I was wondering what happened to my reservation deposit that I paid one year ago: Askja did not offset the reservation deposit against the buying price when I actually bought the car. Based on the above experience that Askja does not react to questions, I gave up trying to get an answer from them when and therefore rather asked in an Icelandic Facebook group other EV6 owners whether they got the deposit offset and guess what: Askja answered in the Facebook group within an hour. Also when I sent via email a complaint about the bad service to Askja, I got an answer that they want to look into this issue within a few hours. It seems that any way is better to contact Askja than the one that they recommend on their web page where they describe how to contact them in case of urgent problems. It seems, Askja really has a quality management problem.
Update 21-12-2022: I cheered to soon: concerning my 15-12-2022 email complaint about the bad service to Askja where I got within a few hours an answer that they want to look into this issue: I got on 16-12-2022 a short e-mail that they did not have time to look into the issue, but intend to do so. Since then, I did not hear anything from them.
Service mentality in Iceland
This terrible service mentality in Iceland (first, you try to contact via email: no answer, then you try to phone: they do not lift up the receiver, only after driving there and talking directly to them helps: they typically ask you then to write them an email with all the details, i.e. you go back to the first step) is due to a lack of competition: the country is so small that there are no competitors.
This terrible service mentality is also discussed in Icelandic car owners forums, and there it was claimed that this is in particular a problem with car dealers/service in the capital area and that I should next time go to some dealer and service on the country side. I regret therefore already that Bílaumboðið Askja got my money for the car. In fact, I did so far import all my cars on my own, and this was the first time that I used an Icelandic dealership -- which was obviously a mistake. But I should have known better: when I was considering buying my Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV in Iceland (to avoid the hassle of self-import), the salesperson of the Icelandic dealership Hekla was so incompetent (i.e., I knew more about the car than he), that I thought: no, they will not get my money -- I did then rather import it on my own from a competent dealer in Germany that gave me even a better price.
For sure, this was the first and the last car that I bought from Askja and I will try to avoid their service and in future rather combine the scheduled warranty inspections with a trip the countryside. One would think that a good salesperson is aware that happy customers come back and buy the next car as well with them (and potentially an even more expensive car) -- but this service thinking does simply not exist in Iceland.
Apropos thinking: there is also no understanding concerning the revolution of Vehicle-to-load (V2L) and future Vehicle-to-Grid (V2G): while in future, V2G will help to deal with peak usage, V2L allows me already now to have electricity during camping, power my fridge when there is a power outage or use a hair dryer even the charging cable is frozen in the charge port. The importer Askja ordered the cars from Kia in Korea without a 230 V socket inside the cabin (I asked the salesmen about this and they said they consider it unnecessary -- but in winter, you would need that socket exactly to power a hair dryer in case if your charge port is frozen). Also, the GT line that comes elsewhere with the V2L adapter included, does not come with such an adapter when you buy it from Askja (and of course, I will not buy that adapter from them: you can get them for half of the price elswhere).
ICCU firmware updates to prevent future ICCU defects
Update 8-11-2023: I now got Service campaign SC271 applied, i.e. a firmware update of the ICCU that hopefully prevents this from happening again. Based on CarScanner OBD ECU readings, the version numbers ("Manufacturer ECU software number") for the ICCU changed as follows:
Before SC271:
4WD #1 / OnBoard Charger (Hybrid/EV)
SW Boot ver.: NEICCU51
SW ver.: NE1A024
ECU serial number: 123456789ABCDEF
ECU part. num.: 364011XFB0
Idents string: NE1A024
Manufacturer spare part number: 364011XFB0
Manufacturer ECU software number: ECV1E1-IES05R000
ECU manufacturing date (ASCII): !
System supplier ECU hardware version: 364011XFB0
ECU manufacturing date (HEX): 20210906
Programming date (HEX): 33363430313158464230
After SC271:
4WD #1 / OnBoard Charger (Hybrid/EV)
SW Boot ver.: NEICCU51
SW ver.: NE1A037
ECU serial number: 123456789ABCDEF
ECU part. num.: 364011XFB0
Idents string: NE1A037
Manufacturer spare part number: 364011XFB0
Manufacturer ECU software number: ECV1E3-IES12R000
ECU manufacturing date (ASCII): !
System supplier ECU hardware version: 364011XFB0
ECU manufacturing date (HEX): 20210906
Programming date (HEX): 33363430313158464230
However, that software update seems to have mainly been about warning earlier about the ICCU failure after it occurred (so that you have more time to leave a busy road and drive your car to a safe sport), but not preventing it. The video below shows a paper that says in the first 10-22 minutes of ICCU failure detection, full motor power will be available and only after 21-45 minutes, some fail-safe mode (vehicle stops).
Update 21-05-2024: I now got a further ICCU firmware update (namely SC302) that aims at actually preventing ICCU failure (avoiding spikes at the end of charging, better cooling, also the 12 V battery charging pattern might have changed).
I still need to read the new SW version info via OBD.
Now that electric cars have a reasonable range, driving around the ring road is no issue anymore (on your own car via the ferry or via an Icelandic car rental that offer more and more electric cars). Therefore, some information for tourists (and Icelanders new to EV charging: hleðsla rafbíla) who want to use an electric vehicle (EV) in Iceland and want to know how the charging situation is. (For non-Europeans: in Europe, Type 2 plugs are the norm, so when below the term CCS is used, this refers to CCS-Type 2 fast charging plugs).
Basically, the charging infrastructure is as follows:
ON (the former Reykjavik utilities company), in some EV navigation systems also listed as part of the Fortum Charge and Drive network (not sure, whether this means that the Fortum charging app or RFID key would work): Across Iceland, the oldest and most dense and most powerful charging points: Alpitronic high-Power Hyperchargers with CCS and Chademo, some old ABB 50 kW tripple chargers, i.e. CCS, Chademo and Type 2, some Tritium Veefil 50 kW CCS and Chademo chargers (pinball machine flashback), a few old DBT 44 kW multistandard DC chargers, and AC chargers: a few with tethered Type 1 and Type 2 cables, most with the usual European Type 2 plug, i.e. you need your own cable.
You can spot the ON chargers easily as they are orange. For locations, see their map. They issue their own RFID charging keys, but you need an Icelandic ID number ("kennitala") to order them, so no chance to get these as a tourist (I found at least one Icelandic car rental that therefore provides you with an ON key when renting from them). Luckily, the Plugsurfing key works as well (I can confirm that the key works) -- however, the Plugsurfing app does not work. Unfortunately, Plugsurfing sends RFID keys/cards only to addresses in Europe.
For those without ON nor Plugsurfing key: ON has now a new app (Android or iOS) where you can register without having an Icelandic ID number (not tried registering without yet, though -- reports are welcome). ON has just recently added stickers with QR codes to their charging station that contain station IDs that you can scan with the ON app (tried that: works), you can also enter that station Id manually into the ON app.
In case of problems at the charging station, do not hesitate to call ON 24/7 hotline (they are very helpful), e.g., to make them reset a fast charger (I heard stories that they even started charging for you when you forgot your ON key).
Ísorka: they mainly offer owners of AC chargers to take care of the finances, i.e. while the chargers are marked Ísorka, they are not owned and operated by Ísorka. As such, the costs of AC charging are decided by the owners of each charging point. In addition, there are more and more DC fast chargers where you pay via Ísorka.
You can spot their charging station based on their blue-white logo. For locations, see their map.
You should not need an Ísorka RFID key as the Ísorka app works typically always. However, the payment works in a pre-paid way and thus you have to pre-pay 3000 ISK at the first use (via credit card) and if you charge during your Iceland vacation only for 500 ISK, you have wasted 2500 ISK. There is also a web-based payment using the QR code on the charging point which might be somewhat more expensive, but you do not need to pre-pay (never tried that, though). I read that it is also possible to register at Ísorka also other RFID cards than the Ísorka RFID key and use then that other RFID card, e.g. register the ID of your ON RFID key in order to reduce the amount of RFID key clutter.
As Ísorka is part of the Virta network, Virta-related keys and apps should work as well (not tried, though).
e1: A new contender that is -- like Ísorka -- taking care of the charging fees, i.e. the owners of the chargers decide on the price (and sometimes, the same charger can be used using e1 and, e.g., Ísorka and e1 is extremely expensive in comparison. The eONE charging app is available at Google Play and App Store. For the fast chargers in the West fjords, you will need them and now also on the South coast (town of Hella) new fast chargers are added that use e1. Also some destination chargers all over Iceland use them. I have not tried them yet, but it seems that their app offers to register any RFID key, so that you cannot only use their app, but also an RFID key.
N1: A gas station operator that started offering EV charging by taking over old 50 kW fast chargers from ON (when N1 terminated the rental contract based on which ON was able to set up fast chargers at N1 gas stations) and painting them in red (in Plugshare, you still find old photos from which you might be tempted that these are still chargers operated by ON).
For locations, see their map. Since 2021 and still at time of writing in 2022, some stations (e.g. Vík, Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Ísafjörður) have a golden sticker ("Frí hleðsla") stating that charging is free for a limited amount of time: welcome this, but do not rely on that it is free forever. Update 2/2023: I did not see that sticker in Vík anymore, so this free charging might be history.
In the past, it was always required to pay: either using the N1 pre-paid card that also works for gas (and thus you can buy at the shops at N1 gas stations) or some chargers might even take ordinary credit cards: the N1 gas pumps have anyway some payment terminal where you can chose the pump and in fact also the chargers (if, e.g., the charger has some Icelandic text "Greiðsla fer fram í sjálfsala á dælu 6" this translates to pay at pump 6 where you should find a payment self-service payment terminal where you can then also pay for the charger using a credit card or an N1 card). They now have a new app and it is possible to pay with it.
I read on social media many reports of people complaining that the chargers are unreliable and when they called the N1 hotline, these reports say that this was not helpful. These people recommend to not rely on N1 chargers: they are nice to have if they work while they are taking a pee at N1, but they do not add them as reliable chargers into their route planning.
Orkan: Another gas station operator that started offering EV charging using new Kempower fast chargers. There are many ways to pay, including credit/debit cards and e1.
Of course, there is Tesla with Superchargers with Type 2 CCS: like in many other countries, they have now been opened for the general public -- but only the less frequently used ones: these are currently all except Reykjavik and Staðarskáli. Most are V3 superchargers (V3 provides up to 250kW, older ones less, typically 150 kW). Tesla superchargers are typically slightly more expensive than other DC chargers.
You need the Tesla app for payment. Tesla also has a few destination chargers (those who do not know it: if there is only one destination charger, it is Tesla-only, but if there are more, then the others are also for non-Tesla EVs).
InstaVolt is a new operator that is offering fast chargers that can be paid just by your credit or debitcard. It seems that they do not even have an app (or the app is only for UK). They use 160 kw BYD fast chargers and their network is expanding rapidly in particular at locations where fast chargers were badly missing.
Have a look at their map for their charging locations.
Stoppustuð: Sometimes, you find (in particular on the country-side) some purple AC chargers marked STOPPUSTUÐ. These charging points where once given by the company Orkusalan for free to, e.g., municipalities. (Some may not work at all as no one maintains them anymore.) It is up to the municipalities how much they cost, but typically, they are for free -- I did so far encounter not a single one that was not for free, but some of them show up on the Ísorka map, so maybe non-free chargers would be paid via Ísorka?
Typically, you still need whatever RFID chip (could be, e.g., you Plugsurfing key/card or anything else that has RFID) to start and then use the same RFID to end the charging session and release the charging cable. Most Stoppustuð are listed on Plugshare (which is anyway from the crowd-sourced maps the one mainly one used in Iceland).
Free destinations charging in the Reykjavik area at shopping malls and IKEA: The malls Kringlan and Smáralind offer free charging at a few spots of their parking space (marked in green).
In particular IKEA has plenty of free chargers: as the IKEA restaurant is typically the cheapest (fast) food in Iceland, you can fill your car's battery with electrons and your stomach with french fries in parallel.
If your accommodation has no charger, you might still use an ICCB (in-cable control box)/Mode 2 charging cable that plugs into the Schuko socket used in Iceland for normal AC wall plugs.
But note that while officially Schuko connections are rated for up to 16 A peak currents, this applies only to short peaks: Charging several hours, e.g. overnight, with 16 A (times 230 V, i.e. approx. 3.6kW) will generate a lot of heat at the connectors and will melt your Schuko connection and can even cause fire. So, take care that you can limit charging to, e.g. 10 A (approx. 2.3 kW) or lower, and that the Schuko socket does not look totally corroded (not uncommon for outdoor connectors exposed to Icelandic weather) or any indications that the installation is very old and cannot deal with permanent high load. Good ICCB/Mode 2 charging cables have a heat sensor inside the Schuko plug to prevent such overheating, so do not use any extension cords (because then, the heat sensor is only in the Schuko plug of the ICCB, but not in the Schuko plug of the other end of the extension cord). As an example, the Tesla Universal Mobile Connector (UMC) gen 1 with Schuko plug draws 3 kW (i.e. 13 A which is for my taste not what I would consider as a safe permanent load with a Schuko plug), whereas the UMC gen 2 is very conservative and draws with Schuko plug only 8 A (1.8 kW) which I would consider safe.
In general, finding a 50 kW charger is not a problem (often, these are ABB triple chargers, where it is often possible to use Type 2 AC charging in parallel to either CHAdeMO and Type 2 CCS DC charging). Typically, there is only one 50 kW charger at each place, i.e. you may have to wait for the charger to get available.
High-Power Chargers (HPC), i.e. more than 50 kW, are just slowly being added, but the ones operated by ON come typically as twins, i.e. two chargers are installed at each place and these are the modular Alpitronic hyperchargers that have two or three 75 kW stack module: if one car uses only 75 kW, then you can charge another car in parallel with using the remaining module(s) (so in the best case, two Alpitronic chargers can charge four cars at the same time, but typically, the have only 2 CCS cables and 1 Chademo cable). Note that the newer Alpitronic hyperchargers even have 100 kW per stack module and these can then sub-divided to provide 50 kW to one cable and the other 50 kW to another cable.
Be warned that Icelanders travel on their EVs in particular during the weekends of the summer, i.e. Friday evening, and in particular Sunday afternoon, the chargers tend to be busy: if you plan to travel during these times, you can expect delays, i.e. try to AC charge your car overnight so that it is 100% full in order to minimise relying on fast chargers during that trip and instead of relying that it is safe to arrive with, e.g., 10% state of charge at some charger, charge rather whenever you come along a free charger (even if you still have plenty of juice in your battery).
As always, leaving a phone number visible in the car to be reachable while charging is a good practise.
Be warned that during winter, the chargers may not be reachable, as snow has not been cleared.
I did not cover any pricing, as there is not a lot of competition (well, some companies try to compete mainly by filing complaints about the other company), but you are in the first place happy to find at all a charger.
For those coming with their EV via the ferry: the first AC charging point (Stoppustöð) is on the camping ground in Seyðisfjörður and the first fast chargers are in Egilstaðir (N1 and Tesla, see Plugshare map -- but ON has just announced to improve in future Egilstaðir where they have currently only AC chargers) and your car has to climb a mountain pass to reach Egilstaðir. Note that there is no electrical power grid along the ring road between Egilstaðir and lake Mývatn that would supply enough power to operate a fast charger, so take this into account.
The Westfjords are not covered well by ON, so again, have a look at at Plugshare for the available fast chargers offered by others. Mainly, this is the Westfjord Power Company (Orkubú Vestfjarða) with chargers in Bjarkarlundur, Flókalundur, Hólmavík, Hvítanes, Ísafjörður, Patreksfjörður, Reykjanes, Tálknafjörðir og Þingeyri who are relying on the Icelandic charging operator e1 (see above). Also South Iceland is not well covered by ON (they used to have chargers in Hvolsvöllur, Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur, but these are now all N1 owned), but by other operators.
There is also a map with public charging stations (select Shops, etc., EV Charging Stations (but be aware that the map contains some errors, i.e. some charging stations listed there do not exist).
Of course, also Iceland suffers from the bad habit of dinosaur-blood consuming ICE cars (and even EVs not charging) blocking EV chargers. Unfortunately, you can only request to get them legally towed away if they are marked with an official sign (which is typically not the case).
Luckily, more and more Electric Vehicles (EVs) support getting electricity out of the drive battery again. In future, this can be a key to use the energy stored in EVs during peak-usage (Vehicle-to-Grid). For the time being, I use it to have electricity when camping or during power outages to power my fridge.
For example, the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV has a dedicated Schuko plug (rated at 1500 W -- by the way: it has no fuse: if you draw more amps, then simply the voltage goes down). Note that the Schuko plug exists only if the Outlander PHEV has not a heated windscreen as the same cabling is used for heated windscreen as for the plug, i.e. it is "either or" .
MG and Hyundai/Kia do this via the Type 2 charging connector (well, Hyundai/Kia do support also an internal Schuko plug, but the Icelandic Kia importer decided to offer/order only configurations without that internal plug). For the Type 2-based approach, a proprietary Type 2 to Schuko adapter is needed that is pretty expensive if you buy the OEM version.
Luckily, some re-engineering has been done that shows that only cheap passive electronics is inside. But be aware that the adapters are slightly different for MG and Hyundai/Kia. And in addition to DIYsolutions (concerning the resistor, I did some research: a 0.25 W resistor should be enough), third parties start to offer way cheaper adapters: both for the MG, and for the Hyundai/Kia -- these are UK quality, better than China quality that does not even have the butto needed for Kia/Hyundai V2L adapter to start and stop V2L.
E-Mail: helmut at hi. is
(Encrypted e-mail welcome: my public PGP key, also available at key servers -- X.509 based S/MIME encryption possible on request.)
