Should I or you ever need to delete all registered devices for WiFi access to the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, I found a solution on some English forum (I hope, it is OK to copy it here):

WiFi Reset Procedure:

1. Get in the car and Fully close the Drivers door.
2. IMPORTANT - All steps below must be performed within a total of 30 seconds.
3. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the power button once so that it glows orange (ACC mode).
4. Turn on the Hazard lights.
5. Now quickly alternately press and release the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the key fob 5 times, i.e. 10 presses in total. This must be done within 10 seconds of pressing the Power button ON as in (1) above.
6. Listen for one BEEP, followed by 0, 1 or 2 more beeps.
7. Now quickly alternately press the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the key fob another 10 times each within 10 seconds, i.e. another 20 presses.
8. Listen for one BEEP, followed by 0 more beeps.

If you only hear a single BEEP, with no following BEEPs, you have successfully reset the WiFi. You can now register 2 new phones with the car again, using the standard procedure (but see Note below). If you hear more BEEPs after the first long BEEP, then its not worked and you should try again following the procedure correctly step by step and within the timings stated.

Switch off the Power button and Hazard lights.

Note: If you reset the WiFi, before you attempt to connect your phone to the car again, you should first remove the Mitsubishi APP from your phone completely.
Once the APP is removed you can then connect your phone with the car WiFi first and only then, after successfully connecting your phone (not the APP) to the car WiFi, should you download and install the APP again. Then of course you must go through the APP procedure.

On some Android phones (like mine) after you first connect to the car WiFi with your phone, a warning will pop up on your phone after about 10 or 15 seconds stating there is no internet connection with this WiFi and it will ask you if you still want to connect to this particular WiFi now and in the future. You MUST wait for this pop up on your phone and select Yes (of course!).

I addition, some German forum covers that as well.

After the terrible experience with my dealer (Bílaumboðið Askaj), I had to investigate whether drive battery pre-conditioning works or not:

While the Kia (and Hyundai) EVs always had a "winter mode" where it heats the drive battery up to +5 °C when it is below -5 °C (and the battery has a low SoC, i.e. it can be anticipated that some charging might happen soon), recently heating to reach 20 °C has been added by selecting a High-Power Charger (HPC) with a power of 200 kW or more or a slower DC charger. This can be annoying if outdated map data indicates no charger at to select in the navigation system as that you can set as destination or waypoint.-- but then, just claim to navigate to the closest DC/HPC charger known in the map.

However, to make that work, you need

1. Navigation/infotainment system update for the head unit (HU), e.g. the one from Dec 2022 (you can do this update on your own)
2. Update of ECU firmware (BMS and VCU) -- only the dealer service can do that

You still have the old winter mode, if you see in your head unit in the "EV settings" section an entry "Winter mode". If you see rather instead "Battery conditioning mode", then you have the new battery heating mode:

Battery conditioning mode displayed if drive battery pre-heating works (if the needed firmware updates have not been made, you see just: winter mode)

The conditions to activate are not fully clear, but my summary of the best forum post (in German) on that topic that I found so far is:

1. Of course, the new "Battery conditioning mode" needs to be enabled
2. Navigating to an HPC/DC charger (note: it is often written that this needs to be an HPC charger, but I experienced that a DC charger also activates battery heating in cold condition), even as a waypoint -- but be aware that navigation only starts if the HPC/DC charger is the very next waypoint (in case you have multiple waypoints).
3. Drive battery temperature below 21 °C (heating will later stop once 21 °C or more have been reached, but will resume again once dropped to 19.5 °C or lower)
4. SoC is 24% or higher (heating will later stop once SoC is 20% or lower) -- somewhat stupid: optimal charging speed means to reach the charger with an SoC as low as, e.g., 10%, but battery heating is not possible with low SoC
5. It is not fully clear, when the preconditioning starts: it seems that it depends on the temperature of the battery (the colder, the earlier the preheating has to start). Also, it seems that preconditioning stops somewhat before reaching the charger (in order to spread or balance the heat inside the battery to prevent that some modules or too hot while others are too cold): a hypothesis is that the car estimates the SoC that it will have when it arrives at the charger and stops at a Soc that is 10 percentage point higher than the estimated SoC of arrival (this would fit to the fact that preconditioning stops at 20% SoC as the car estimates then to arrive with 10% SoC, i.e. leaves another 10% SoC as safety buffer.
   
   It seems that 10 minutes of pre-conditioning increase the battery temperature by ca. 3 Kelvin (there have been reports of preconditioning starting 65 minutes in advance of reaching the HPC charger).

You will notice that the battery heating is active if a snow flake (typically model year 2022) or a heating spiral icon (typically model year 2023 -- this is very likely related to the firmware used by the cluster unit (CLU) firmware that displays the main dashboard) is shown in the battery percentage bar on the very bottom left of the dashboard.

Also pre-conditioning (to +10 °C only, though) via app is possible by either simply starting climate control for the cabin or by setting a schedule for climate control (i.e. not only the cabin gets heated, but also the battery -- you can use this, e.g., if you have the car parked at home and want to fast charge at a charger very close to you: in this case, the pre-conditioning during driving would not be long enough; but if you do not intend to charge, but only want to pre-heat the cabin, heating the battery wastes of course energy):

1. Activated pre-conditioning via app
2. SoC at least 35% (this is what you read in the forums, I had the feeling that this percentage might be even higher)
3. Drive battery temperature 8 °C or lower
4. Every pre-conditioning as part of a 15 minute cabin pre-heating increases the battery temperature by ca. 5 Kelvin

The app indicates this (in the European app, next to the battery level bar, is a question mark icon: if you click on it, it shows how battery pre-conditioning will be shown in the app). Just be aware that the conditioning needs ca. 1 minute to start, so you will not see it immediately (e.g. in the app, you need the refresh the status after ca. 1 minute in order to see the changed battery icon).

I still need to find a good overview on the charging power in relation to the battery temperature (I maybe need to do my own measurements using EVNotify). Many forum posts support that there are 5 Kelvin steps (instead of a gradual curve). What I found so far:

• more than 25°C: max. ca. 225 kW charging power
• between 20°C and 25°C: max. ca. 185 kW charging power
• between 15°C and 20°C: max. ca. 115 kW or 140 kW charging power
• between 11°C and 15°C: max. ca. 73 kW charging power
• between 5°C and 10°C: max. ca. 65 kW charging power
• between -5°C and 5°C: max. ca. 50 kW charging power

Note that these are Ioniq 5 numbers, EV6 seems to be slightly different, e.g.. 65 kW at +3°C.

Note also that both the coldest and the warmest battery module needs to be within that temperature range.

After my terrible experience with my dealer (Bílaumboð Askja) who promised me that all updates have been made, which however proved to be simply wrong (it seems that at Kia, the head unit update is always left to the owner), I had to do the update on my own:

Updating the Hyundai/Kia/Genesis head unit/navigation infotainment system firmware can be done by the end user.
For European models, you can find the download here: https://update.kia.com/EU/E1/Main -- once you updated to a new enough firmware, future updates can even be done over-the-air (OTA) (but note that only two OTA updates might be available for free, so do not blindly agree to download and install an OTA update. But you can install the same updates via USB).

This update does not only give you new map data, but in fact, it controls many features not related to navigation (but even the salesperson of my car dealer is not aware of this), e.g. battery pre-conditioning.

A guide is available from Kia, but in principle it works by downloading an update tool to your computer that then downloads the right and latest firmware and writes it to a big enough USB storage device. You will need one with a type A connector, e.g., a USB stick (the 2022-12-07 update is 40 GB, so you need at least a 64 GB storage device: it will be formatted by the update tool) that you can then plug into your car's USB A port.

However, the Kia web page provides only downloads of an update tool for MS Windows and Apple Mac. Trying to download it via a web browser from Linux gives an error. I guess, some Javascript checks the operating system string in your web browser Id. I did not check the Javascript. Later I read that using Wine should work to run the update tool and then let that tool download the files and then use Linux to copy these files (all those files inside directory EV6_MY_22_EI) to the root of the USB key) -- but I did not yet try that.

I therefore decided to use a virtual machine running MS Windows. The steps are as follows (depending on your download speed, expect: 1 h for downloading the MS Windows image, 1 h for downloading the new firmware image, 1 h for writing the firmware image to the USB key, 1 h for the update in the car itself):

• Download & install VirtualBox (via your Linux operating system's packet manager or by download from https://www.virtualbox.org/ )
• Download & install (via packet manager or download) the VirtualBox extensions pack for making the USB port available in the Windows VM (typically requires to reboot your Linux system to make this work: I guess some kernel modules are involved that do not get automatically inserted during installation, but only after re-boot)
• Download a free MS Windows 10 virtual machine image from Microsoft: https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/microsoft-edge/tools/vms/ (The download takes time.).
• Import that VM image into VirtualBox: take care to have the virtual file system partition big enough for the download, i.e. have 40 to 64 GB free in addition to the MS Windows installation itself.
• Plug your USB key in, don't mount it in Linux and configure VirtualBox to access it: see here
• After starting the VM with MS Windows 10, log in via the password "Passw0rd!". In the File Explorer, you should see the USB key as drive letter D:

Starting from here, the steps are the same as for any MS Windows user:

• Using the web browser in the VM (i.e. Edge), download the Windows updater from https://update.kia.com/EU/E1/navigationUpdate
• Start the downloaded updater (I did start it as administrator to make sure that the access to the USB key works)
• Select then your car type in order to download the right firmware (as this is a huge download, this will take time -- if you do not have enough space, the downloader will complain. The good thing about a VM is that you can easily increase the size of the VM file system)
• Finally, the updater will write the downloaded firmware to the USB key (which will again take time -- note: it might be that you Windows VM shuts down automatically after writing to the USB key has finished)
• Plug the USB key into your car (the "main" USB port, i.e. the USB A type one that you use also for Android Auto/Apple Car play -- all other ports, i.e. the USB type C ones, are typically no data ports, i.e. power only)
• Typically, the car recognises that there is an update on the USB stick and open some prompt to start the update. If not, on the car screen, go to "Settings", "General", "Version info/update" and click "Update". Follow the prompt on the screen. The car will first check the download on the USB key (takes ca. 10 minutes): so you do not need to worry that anything with the download or writing to the USB could have gone wrong, because the car checks that anyway.
• The update should now be running (either after switching off the car or you can choose to do this while the car is on -- but then, you cannot use the head unit while driving). It takes a while, so take care that the 12 V battery is full (some even recommend to have a 12 V charger connected for any firmware update) or leave the car's gear in P mode or enable the car's utility mode (which ensures to charge the 12 V battery even if the car is not in drive mode, but in fact if and only if not in drive, i.e. it also prevents that your car accidentally drives or roles away).

Firmware and map versions before the update (compare with the versions after the update, shown below

Updates I installed successfully:

• December 2022 (22-12-07, but internally, it ihas 221129 as ID)
  
  

  Version numbers displayed after the Dec 2022 update

While I did not find many tests on EV-specific tyres (EVs are heavier and have more torque and as EV are silent, EV tyres should be silent as well, and they claim to have reduced rolling resistance to increase range; I as a layman would think that they have less grip -- I found a test from 2019 (in German) that confirms this and also points to problems with aquaplaning), I found a very interesting video showing that winter-biased all seasons tyres might be not that bad for the Reykjavík area -- while Nordic winter tyres excel on ice and snow, they are really bad in wet and dry conditions (even when cold). This test confirms also claims that summer tyres are good even in cold conditions, but only as long as it is dry -- which you should of course not rely on in winter.

While a car with a combustion engine charges its 12 V battery via an alternator, electric vehicles (EVs) have a DC-DC converter to step down the 400 V or 800 V from the drive battery to charge the 12 V battery. This is done when the car is switched on (because then, a lot of electronic control units (ECUs) drain the 12 V battery), but also when the car is switched off while charging the drive battery (while only a few ECUs need to be active to control the charging, charging the drive battery can take many hours which could drain the 12 V battery even with the few active ECUs). Typically, even when the EV is completely switched off (which includes that the drive battery is disconnected for safety reasons), it wakes up occasionally and checks the voltage of the 12 V battery and charges it if necessary (by connecting the drive battery for the DC-DC converter). Problems can occur if the car is switched off, but you still do something that prevents the ECUs from sleeping, e.g. have the trunk door open for loading/unloading the car. So try to keep this short, otherwise the 12 V battery is dead after a few hours.

Also, when the drive battery is reaching a low (20% for the Kia EV6) state of charge (SOC), the 12 V may not get charged anymore (to protect the expensive drive battery from getting deep-discharged -- it is cheaper to replace a 12 V battery than a drive battery). So avoid, e.g., driving to the airport leaving only minimal juice in the drive battery, because if you park then the car while you are in vacation, the car will not charge the 12 V battery.

How can you find out when the DC-DC charging is going on: you may be tempted to use a voltmeter (you will measure 14 V during DC-DC charging), but some cars (this seems to be the case for Kia EV6) do not charge the 12 V battery while the bonnet is open (to avoid any interference of the 14 V DC-DC voltage with what you are doing, e.g. trickle charging the 12 V battery). Important: even for a simple thing such as exchanging a 12 V battery, you might want to disable the high-voltage drive battery. In the Kia EV6, this is very easy: in the fuse box below the bonnet, there is a fuse-like cut-off switch that you can easily pull.
To show that the drive battery is activated even though the car is off, some cars have a light (e.g. the Hyundai Kona or even the US version of the EV6), but the European EV6 seems not to have such an indicator (while there is a bulb in the middle of the dashboard where the US versions are reported to have a light, this seems to be unused in the European versions). For the IONIQ5, it is claimed that open front vents indicate DC-DC charging and I have the feeling that this is also the case as well for my EV6 (when charging a lead-acid battery, hydrogen can emerge and opening the front vents may help to dilute the hydrogen to reduce the danger of explosions).

But there are also defects that can drain the battery, e.g., for the Hyundai IONIQ 5, it is well documented that the charge door module has often defects that prevent some ECUs to go to sleep (or the charge door ECU itself is defect). As a result, you find many reports of people who encounter a dead car in the morning.

EV6

But the case here is different: the car is alive, but still does not charge the 12 V battery: while the 12 V battery voltage is low, it has not yet been fully drained, i.e. it is possible to start the car: the car should then notice that it has to charge the 12 V battery, but due to some defect, it does not do so.

Update: A year later, I am now pretty sure that the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU) and a related fuse were damaged.

This is from a brand new Kia EV6 (84 km driven, bought 3 days ago) that has a problem that manifests among others with a 12 V battery that is not charged by the drive battery via the DC-DC converter (and also warnings concerning the drive electrics and switching to turtle mode -- it is hard to say whether these warnings are a symptom of the 12 V battery low voltage or whether that fact that it does not DC-DC charge the 12 V battery voltage is a symptom of a more severe failure to which the drive electrics warning and turtle mode refer to). After switching the car on, everything was normal except a message popping up: "Check electric vehicle system", followed later by a "Stop vehicle and check power supply" (complaining about a low 12 V battery) and "Power limited" (turtle mode). But as the car is switched on (into ready mode), it should charge the 12 V battery using the DC-DC converter. I tried also AC charging the drive battery (which should also lead to charging the 12 V battery), but after one minute, the AC charging of the drive battery gets aborted by the car. I then switched the car off, hoping that is sooner or later periodically checks the 12 V battery and charges it -- but this did neither work (instead, the battery is dead now: following 7.5 V, it is now down to 3 to 4 V which means the 12 V battery is now deep-discharged, i.e. damaged and needs to be replaced -- but this of course only makes sense after the root cause of the problem has been fixed, e.g. a broken DC-DC converter or a broken ECU or simply some missing update of a buggy firmware -- but the car dealer promised me that all firmware updates have been applied when I pointed out that I am paying the model year 23 price for a model year 22 car that is shipped with ECUs firmwares that are not as new as the model year 23 firmwares).

I have documented this in a video where you see first how the AC charging gets aborted after one minute (no charging limit was active and the SOC was 67%, i.e. it should have charged up to 100%):

Drive battery AC charging aborted after one minute (0:00-1:32). Click to play video.

In the remainder of the video, you can see how the car is switched on, but still, the 12 V battery gets not charged:

Car turned on with 12 V battery warning, but not charging 12 V battery (1:42-4:37). Click to play video.

Update: as the 12 V battery gets not charged, the voltage is now down to 3.1 V and the car is completely dead:

12 V battery voltage down to 3.1 V (0:00-0:23). Click to play video.

Another explanation for this erratic behaviour could be a special fuse that is used when shipping cars: it is pulled to make the car drain the 12 V battery as little as possible during transport. If it is then not properly pushed in by the receiving dealership, the car can behave very strange. But in fact, the EV6 did behave normal during the first two days, so this is not very likely (and I do not know whether the EV6 has such a fuse at all).

12 V battery: produced 27-06-2022, killed 3-12-2022 by a faulty KIA EV6.

3-12-2022 and 4-12-2022:
I wrote on 3-12-2022 my car dealer at the dealership Bílaumboðið Askja (official Kia importer in Iceland) an email about the problem. Also I used on 4-12-2022 the web form that Bílaumboðið Askja suggests to use outside opening hours in those cases where the road-side service cannot help (the road-side service would come with a battery jump start booster pack, but it is clear that jump starting alone would not help) and I asked Askja to call back.

Let's hope, the Kia service can find the root cause of the problem (but: when they mounted winter wheels, they filled the tyres with a too low pressure: 29 PSI; also for these rims, the document of approval states that the vehicle owner needs to be notified to check after 50 km the torque of the wheel studs/bolts of the winter rims, which they did not do -- maybe they are not got at these basics, but very good in EV diagnostics).

Update 5-12-2022: I was too optimistic with the Kia service at Askja -- I should have written :"Let's hope that the Kia service reacts." My first contact was 3-12-2022 with the salesperson of Askja (as the seller is the one who is in charge (pun intended) of warranty and in fact the warranty conditions recommend to contact the seller). That salesperson at least answered 5-12-2022 and claimed that their service will contact me. (As written above, I had in fact already contacted Kia service in the way they recommend on their web page, namely via a web form, on 4-12-2022 and asked them to call back -- but as of 5-12-2022, Askja service did not even call back.) When I pointed out to that salesperson that the service did in fact not contact me, that salesperson simply stopped answering my emails. (From that point I assumed that any electronic communication with the Kia staff is hopeless.)

Update 6-12-2022: Still no answer from KIA service. So, I finally drove to the KIA dealership (luckily, I have a Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV -- a very reliable car that never let me down -- and its 5 year old 360 degree camera is in fact better than the EV6 360 degree camera). I saw then there the salesperson who does not answer my emails sitting bored at his desk, so I considered it pointless to talk to that person and went instead to the service desk. When I pointed out, that they do not answer my service request, they claimed, I used the wrong web form (well, it was the one that they recommend to use on their web page, i.e. they do not know their own web page). But at least, they promised to fetch the car tomorrow (why not today?). I also handed them over a signed letter requesting free warranty service with a deadline to fix the problem within two weeks (I did send that one already as email to the salesperson from whom I bought the car, but he did not confirm having received it), maybe that helps. Ironically, I found in my email spam folder today an email where I was asked to evaluate the service of that salesperson. Update of update: Finally, they phoned me (after I have driven to Askja) and they excused for calling so late because there was a meeting in the morning -- but this does not explain why they did not call me already, e.g., the day before.

Update 7-12-2022: The tow truck now actually came (4 days after I reported the problem) after I have told on the phone that the 12 V battery is dead. But, well: to start a vehicle with a dead 12 V battery, you need a jump starter booster pack and guess what: the booster pack in the tow truck was not charged. As the DC-DC converter does not charge the 12 V battery, the booster pack needs to be permanently be connected to the dead EV6 12 V battery and while we were trying to drive the car on the ramp, the EV6 switched off as the booster pack did not have enough juice anymore. Also, as the EV6 is in turtle mode ("limited power"), the EV6 cannot even climb the tiny ramp of the tow truck, so it has to be winched up. But first, a new (=fully charged) booster pack is needed that the tow truck is fetching right now (at least: solution-oriented and some progress is made).

No juice in the jump start booster pack, no EV6 that can be put into "Neutral" to winch it up the tow truck -- tow truck drives home again to fetch a booster pack with juice

Once the tow truck came back with a charged booster pack, putting the EV6 gear setting into "Neutral", it was possible to winch up the car. Once the car had 12 V again, the DC-DC charging did still not work (despite the bonnet being closed), i.e. the reset due to the dead 12 V battery did not solve the issue (either there is some error set in the memory that needs to be cleared first or there is really a serious problem).

EV6 winched up on the tow truck -- 4 days after reporting

Let's hope the service finds the problem (and of course replaces the dead 12 V battery). Good news (finally): At least, the service seems to be working on the car: the car was fetched 14:15 and at 16:39, I received the first signs of life via the Kia Connect app. I do not expect that the repair and the test that the failure does not occur anymore will be fast: in my case, the failure occurred only after two days. If they are customer-friendly, they will also install the new navigation system update that came out today (I assume that they anyway update all the firmwares).

Update 9-12-2022: After two days of repair (compare that to the four days of waiting for the tow truck), I got a call that some ECU needs to be replaced (a fuse inside that ECU has blown), but they could not tell me which ECU (maybe the Integrated Charging Control Unit (ICCU)). While they do not have it on stock, they take it from one of their EV6 that they have standing around -- so that is finally good service. I have now fetched my car: it works, but they did not replace the 12 V battery, even though it can be expected that it is now damaged after having been deep discharged to 3 V -- that is bad service. (I hope when I leave the car a couple of days at, e.g., the airport, the battery is still OK once I return.)

I also had now time to check the versions of the firmwares: these are old, very old (navigation app from 26-01-2022 and firmware from 07-04-2022) -- despite the Askja salesperson promising that all updates have been made. (When I bought the car, I did not know where to look up the firmware versions -- but the salesperson has to know the cars he sells, so he could have looked that up.)

(At least, I was able to update the navigation/infotainment system firmware on my own.) I still need to find out whether the firmware fix for the Kia recall 221058 for the parking brake needs still to applied or whether my car is safe -- a bad feeling to need to rely on the (wrong) promise of that salesperson. (While there is the Kia page https://eu-account.kia.com/auth/realms/eukiaidm/account/ for the Kia Connect account needed for the app, it does not list recalls. I tried also creating an account at https://www.mykia.de which knows my VIN (with a wrong warranty start, though), but assumes a German address and German dealer, so I aborted that.) But as that recall seems to apply only for vehicles produced 2 May 2022 or earlier and my EV6 seems to be produced later (my guess based on the first drive shown in the energy consumption statistic: between 13 and 19 July 2022), my EV6 is unlikely to need that recall -- still, it would feel better to be able to rely on the claim of the salesperson who has already been proven wrong.

Update 15-12-2022: I was wondering what happened to my reservation deposit that I paid one year ago: Askja did not offset the reservation deposit against the buying price when I actually bought the car. Based on the above experience that Askja does not react to questions, I gave up trying to get an answer from them when and therefore rather asked in an Icelandic Facebook group other EV6 owners whether they got the deposit offset and guess what: Askja answered in the Facebook group within an hour. Also when I sent via email a complaint about the bad service to Askja, I got an answer that they want to look into this issue within a few hours. It seems that any way is better to contact Askja than the one that they recommend on their web page where they describe how to contact them in case of urgent problems. It seems, Askja really has a quality management problem.

Update 21-12-2022: I cheered to soon: concerning my 15-12-2022 email complaint about the bad service to Askja where I got within a few hours an answer that they want to look into this issue: I got on 16-12-2022 a short e-mail that they did not have time to look into the issue, but intend to do so. Since then, I did not hear anything from them.

This terrible service mentality in Iceland (first, you try to contact via email: no answer, then you try to phone: they do not lift up the receiver, only after driving there and talking directly to them helps: they typically ask you then to write them an email with all the details, i.e. you go back to the first step) is due to a lack of competition: the country is so small that there are no competitors.

This terrible service mentality is also discussed in Icelandic car owners forums, and there it was claimed that this is in particular a problem with car dealers/service in the capital area and that I should next time go to some dealer and service on the country side. I regret therefore already that Bílaumboðið Askja got my money for the car. In fact, I did so far import all my cars on my own, and this was the first time that I used an Icelandic dealership -- which was obviously a mistake. But I should have known better: when I was considering buying my Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV in Iceland (to avoid the hassle of self-import), the salesperson of the Icelandic dealership Hekla was so incompetent (i.e., I knew more about the car than he), that I thought: no, they will not get my money -- I did then rather import it on my own from a competent dealer in Germany that gave me even a better price.

For sure, this was the first and the last car that I bought from Askja and I will try to avoid their service and in future rather combine the scheduled warranty inspections with a trip the countryside. One would think that a good salesperson is aware that happy customers come back and buy the next car as well with them (and potentially an even more expensive car) -- but this service thinking does simply not exist in Iceland.

Apropos thinking: there is also no understanding concerning the revolution of Vehicle-to-load (V2L) and future Vehicle-to-Grid (V2G): while in future, V2G will help to deal with peak usage, V2L allows me already now to have electricity during camping, power my fridge when there is a power outage or use a hair dryer even the charging cable is frozen in the charge port. The importer Askja ordered the cars from Kia in Korea without a 230 V socket inside the cabin (I asked the salesmen about this and they said they consider it unnecessary -- but in winter, you would need that socket exactly to power a hair dryer in case if your charge port is frozen). Also, the GT line that comes elsewhere with the V2L adapter included, does not come with such an adapter when you buy it from Askja (and of course, I will not buy that adapter from them: you can get them for half of the price elswhere).

• Farðu aðeins inn á netspjall með leyfi fullorðinna/foreldris!
• Ekki spjalla við ókunnuga á netinu!
• Ekki hitta fólk sem þú kynnist á netinu!
• Ekki gefa upp persónulegar upplýsingar eins og nafn, heimilisfang, nafn skólans eða lykilorð!
• Mundu að þú þarft ekki að tala við neinn á netinu ef þér líkar það ekki!
• Spyrðu foreldra þína eða aðra fullorðna ef þú skilur ekki eitthvað á netinu!
• Lokaðu strax öllu grunsamlegu á netinu og tilkynntu það til fullorðins sem þú treystir!
• Ekki setja myndir á netið án leyfis foreldra þinna!
• Internetið gleymir aldrei: það sem þú birtir þar getur verið sýnilegt þar að eilífu!
• Ekki setja upp neitt á tölvuna þína án samþykkis foreldra!

We just established the Icelandic National Coordination Centre (NCC-IS) for Cybersecurity. It is is a common platform for cooperation in cybersecurity issues, composed of the following public entities: the Ministry of Higher Education, Science and Innovation, the Icelandic Centre for Research (Rannis), the Electronic Communications Office (ECOI/Fjarskiptastofa), the Computer Emergency Response Team (CERT-IS), the University of Iceland (UoI), Reykjavík University (RU), and the Technology Transfer Office (TTO/Auðna tæknitorg) Iceland.

NCC-IS operates in the context of Regulation (EU) 2021/887 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 20 May 2021 that establishes the European Cybersecurity Industrial, Technology and Research Competence Centre (ECCC) and the Network of National Coordination Centres (NCCs).

The core tasks of NCC-IS are:

• Monitor and support actions: Monitoring and contributing to progress on national cybersecurity strategy activities regarding education, research, and development.
• Provide expertise and link to ECCC and NCC-Network: Ensuring contribution to and coordination with the ECCC and the Network and supporting their strategic tasks.
• Manage and coordinate funding: Managing and coordinating funding from the Digital Europe Programme and Horizon Europe for cybersecurity-related projects. Encouraging and assisting civil society, industry, SMEs, and academia in participating in cybersecurity actions (e.g., cascade funding, national funding contributions, etc.).
• Raise awareness and build a cybersecurity Community: Acting as a central point for the national and European cybersecurity community, disseminating relevant outcomes of the work of the NCC-IS and NCC-Network, the Community, and the ECCC at the national level.
• Develop and disseminate educational programmes: Coordinating, implementing and sharing educational activities and fostering cybersecurity skill building and training (e.g. gap analysis, competence mapping).
• Support research and innovation: Identifying relevant research partners, promoting and strengthening dialogue in cybersecurity research and innovation fields.

Later, the NCC-IS will apply for European funding within the TOPIC ID: DIGITAL-ECCC-2022-CYBER-03-NAT-COORDINATION addressing the corresponding call for proposals call text.

To prevent any misunderstandings: NCC-IS will not take over the job of CERT-IS (or any other party) nor is NCC-IS a Security Operation Center (SOC). NCC-IS is rather an add-on to existing activities in order to raise awareness, co-ordinate actions, and improve education and research related to Cybersecurity on national and European level.

University of Iceland is in charge of developing and disseminate educational programmes, i.e. coordinating, implementing and sharing educational activities and fostering cybersecurity skill building and training. You are welcome to contact me if you are offering, e.g., training course or are interesting in getting updates on available training.

The NCC-IS at the Ministry of Higher Education, Science and Innovation.

Cybersecurity is now more in the focus of politics and has now an own government web page.

After two years of COVID break, Vísindavaka, the Icelandic European Researchers' Night 2022 took place on 1 Oct 2022 and it was a real success: while we had 5700 visitors in 2019, we had significantly more this year: the official number is 6400 visitors, but my feeling is that this number was even higher.

The Computer Science department had a booth showcasing some of its research.

Silence before the storm:

While we still need to work on the gender diversity of the team, we had at least a diverse range of exhibits (and nationalities): from creating art using neural networks over to an industrial 3D scanner, remote sensing where satellite images are analysed, to software engineering with sketches on a touch screen, cybersecurity and our Center of Excellence RAISE.

October is the European Cybersecurity Month and we had a flyer for kids (Hvernig á að vera öruggur á netinu) and a quiz for more grown ups in order to raise awareness for cybersecurity.

CoE RAISE (Research on AI- and Simulation-Based Engineering at Exascale) gave a glimpse into neural networks by using a neural network that runs purely in your browser without any connection to a super computer. Simply use the camera of your smartphone (or laptop) to detect objects in real-time Just open the following web page and allow your browser to use the camera: https://nvndr.csb.app/.

(Allow a some seconds up to a minute for loading the trained model and initialisation.)

The used approach is Single Shot Detector (SSD) (the percentage shows how sure the neural network is about the classification) using the Mobilenet neural network architecture. The dataset used for training is COCO (Common Objects in Context), i.e. only objects of the labeled object classes contained in COCO will get detected. The Javascript code that is running in your browser uses Tensorflow Lite and its Object Detection API and model zoo.

Fun fact: a toy car in the foreground and person in the background next to it is classified as a skateboard -- I guess the neural network learned that a thing with two wheels and a something classified as person on top is a skateboard (this limitation of a neural network is a good example to discuss risks and chances of AI):

In addition, the work from the Sound of Vision is given an AI twist in CoE RAISE, so we had also a 3D scanner that scans the shape of your ear in order to calculate how the shape of your ear influences how you hear from different directions.

Finally, the remote sensing demonstration relates also to work done in CoE RAISE where neural networks are used to classify land cover from satellite images. Visitors could compete against a neural network to classify land cover.

While the following video does not cover any of our exhibits, it gives an idea of the whole event (and each year, there is a price for best science communication, and this year, University of Iceland's children's university got awarded):

As the CDK5 book starts to get outdated (and there is no update: the main authors all retired), we need to think about some replacement.

Some reading resources can be found at https://github.com/theanalyst/awesome-distributed-systems.

After the EOSC-Nordic project's kickoff meeting was face to face in late 2019 (just before COVID pandemics), the final meeting was finally again face to face. I gave a presentation there on cross-border computing via portals:

The week after was the IEEE eScience conference, where I gave two presentations:

A presentation on the Interaction Room for HPC and ML (used in the CoE RAISE project) at the SE4SCIENCE workshop: PPT and PDF.

And another presentation at the REWORDS workshop related to the above EOSC-Nordic presentation: PPT and PDF.

When I arrived in the US, I noticed that my phone with a SIM card from Vodafone Iceland did not work. Once I had WiFi, I was able to send Vodafone Iceland an email and their answer was that there are currently issues with their roaming in the US. So prepare for a digital detox while being in the US with a SIM card from Vodafone Iceland.